Showing posts with label overalls. Show all posts
Showing posts with label overalls. Show all posts

Saturday, 17 May 2014

PUT YOUR BEST FOOT FORWARD - BIAS BINDER FOOT

My insanely fabulous friend, Jen from One Thimble magazine asked if I would put together a bit of a binder foot review for the latest edition of the magazine.   It just so happened, that I was already putting something together and working with my friends at Janome to organise a bit of a pattern club promo for you too!  
You can find details of the promo here.


I have only recently started playing with the binder foot and I am totally in LOVE!


The uses for a binder foot are endless, here are a few suggestions of things I have tried!   
  • Edging a pocket
  • Edging a ruffle
  • Hem
  • Edging a dress or pant lining rather than overlocking or concealing the edge
  • Add to a jacket or dress facing

How to use:

1 (a) USE YOUR OWN BIAS


Using the size gauge on the side of the foot, cut a strip of fabric to the correct size (preferably on the bias, especially if using on a curved edge).
Cut the end of the strip on an angle to make inserting easier.
Using a pin or unpicker, guide the bias through the mouth of the cone and pull through under the foot.

1 (b) USE PURCHASED BIAS BINDING


You will need 12mm single fold bias.
Cut the end of the bias on an angle to make inserting easier.
Thread the bias tape through the first slot on the side of the cone.
Use a pin or unpicker to guide the bias through the mouth and pull through under the foot.

2. FEEDING MAIN FABRIC


Snap binder foot onto your shank with the binding positioned under the foot.
Lower the foot and sew a few test stitches to make sure you are happy with the needle position.  I normally move mine one position closer to the left.
Feed main fabric through the slot.  Fabric should be positioned as close as possible to the needle and as far to the right as you can ensuring that you don’t ‘miss’ it when sewing.
As you start to stitch, the bias will grip around the edge of the main fabric and pull it through under the foot.

3. STITCHING


Pull main fabric to the right slightly while sewing. 
Don’t stretch the main fabric or the bias when sewing or it may result in puckers.
When at the end, stitch a few inches past the end and then snip the binding allowing you to continue sewing your next item, without having to take the foot off to feed the bias again.

Check the finished item to ensure your bias is correctly attached along the length and if your bias has come away from the main fabric or the stitching has gone off the edge in any sections, just unpick a little around the trouble spot, correct the problem, press and then stitch it with your normal foot.

There is not much I don’t like about this foot, but here are a few observations:
It is advertised as being able to use decorative stitch with the foot, but I have found it difficult to use with any decorative stitch other than a zigzag as the stitches are usually too wide to fit on the bias edge and I don’t like the look when stitching on both the main and bias.

I prefer to use store bought 12mm bias binding as the home made strips don’t always fold neatly on the underside, this could be because I tend to use quilting weight fabric though and it would probably work better with a lighter weight fabric and more practice!

Helpful YouTube videos:


I used my binder foot when I made this cute skirt too.  You can find out how to make your own skirt here.


My very talented friend, Sandra from Shabbylicious Designs made this with her bias binding foot.  She was a little cross at me as she has spent a lot on metallic thread and had sewn most of her layers when I talked her into using her binder foot that she had previously discarded because once she did one tier, she wanted to go back and redo all of them! 





Monday, 27 January 2014

ROLLED HEM HINTS & TRICKS


  • Check your manual for the best settings for your machine.  My comments are based on a Janome 644D, but the same logic will work across a lot of other machines as well.
  • Disengage your knife for a great 'rolled' finish (if you don't, it tends to just cut the fabric off rather than 'rolling' it over and you can get the little fabric worms sticking through the stitches)
  • Take out your left needle
  • Shorten your stitch length.  Janome's have an 'R' setting for a rolled hem, but I like to make the stitch length even shorter to get a nice tight, full stitch

  • Match thread to the dominant colour of the fabric you are using.  A fast and easy option is to just replace the upper looper thread with a spool of your sewing machine thread.
  • To change the thread over, trim the existing thread close to the spool, tie on the new thread, wind the handwheel forward to release the threads and then pull the upper looper thread until the new colour comes through the upper looper.  If using your sewing machine thread, you will need to remove the spool holder.
  • If you have woolly nylon that matches, try using that in your upper looper (you will likely have to reduce your tension down if using the nylon too), it will give a lovely thick, tight finish, but be warned, it is not loved by the iron.  

This is how your rolled hem will look. 


…. and underneath



If you are not loving your right needle thread being the existing colour, then swap that thread over as well.  If you are using a pale pastel colour for the rolled hem, then you can usually just leave your needle thread as white and it will still look great.  When changing the needle thread, I find it just as easy to replace that thread entirely rather than trying to tie on the new one because you can't pull the knot through the needle anyway.

Hope some of these tips help you get a great rolled hem finish.

Tuesday, 18 June 2013

PIMP YOUR PATTERN: CRISS CROSS PINNY

GET THE GEORGIE PORGE LOOK!

The talented Emma from Georgie Porge started sewing around 2 years ago, but only started sewing clothing in February this year.  The first clothing pattern she attempted was the BOO! Designs Shirred Dress pattern, and the rest is history... her new found passion was born.  She is lucky enough to have 2 stunning little girls to sew for but also offers custom spots on her page periodically when time permits.

I love what Emma does with my patterns, she adds a whole new girly dimension that I never even consider and WOWed everyone with her take on the pinny pattern.

With a little bit of arm twisting, Emma agreed to whip me up a masterpiece so that I could then tell you how to make it! 

What do you get when you cross a TWIRLY SKIRT with OVERALLS?

CRISS CROSS PINNY


Pattern pieces required 
  • Twirly skirt 'skirt' measurement; multiply the length by 1.5 and use the width from the pattern
  • Use all pattern pieces from the overalls except for the legs/cuffs


Instructions
  • Complete as per the overalls pattern but insert the skirt instead of the pants 
  • For the back skirt, gather the skirt to fit the back waistband (gathering is not required for the back of the overalls normally)
  • After completing the side seams, then hem your skirt


...AND AS EASY AS THAT YOU CAN HAVE A MASTERPIECE LIKE GEORGIE PORGE